Hiroshima

We took the train to Hiroshima, and then took a ferry to a small island that was yet another UNESCO world Heritage site. We did not really stay long enouh to do it justice. There were dozens of ancient shrines with walkways lined with hundreds of tiny carved Budhas and a temple, and a preserved town - kind of a Japanese Heritage Park in the mountains. ALl through the town there were tame deer. They could be touched, and if you were not careful they would start eating your napsack or grab your brochure or map. They seem to think paper is particularily tasty!

Then we went to the Peace Memorial Museum. Much like in Ho Chi Minh City, I choked back tears as I read through the descriptions and looked at the pictures of the devastating effects of the nuclear bomb. It is no wonder Japan has sworn itself to peace and the elimination of nuclear weapons. I was awestruck by the absolute power of that bomb and how it virtually disintigrated an entire city. My most lasting impression - like in Vietnam - was that there are still effects of that war even today. Some people, born in the 40's of women that were pregnant at the time following the bombs, had babies with severe problems caused by the radiation. So you can see people in the 60's and 70's still carrying the scars of war. This impacted me - as it is so easy to think about these wars as so long ago - that it is easy to placate oneself, and not sense the same urgency as the people here do to prevent war from happening again.

Then we went to McDonalds for supper....kinda a tradition I guess, since Joel and I visited the dreaded golden arches on the last day of our trip too. They have a McPork there....a hamburgr, only pork instead of beef.

The next day as we headed back to tokyo, then to the airport to catch our flight, I had a chance to ponder a number of things about Japanm and about this trip. Some things cannot be shared of course, for they are between Nathan and I, but here are a few final thoughts:

Japan was a strange experience for me. It is an example of how capitalism and hard work, shared values and strong work ethic can build a nation. It is clean, efficient, and has the highest per capita spending in the world. The people are quite rich - both financially - and in tradition. They are an honorable race. The pride they take in their cities is easily seen in the infrastructure. Transportation infrastructure is amazing, and designed to get the people where they need to go (usually work). Accommodations for the disabled are evident everywhere....brail built into street, bathroom cubilces, etc. Ramps for access. There are few homeless people. Arts and culture are promoted through free admission to most museums/sites. The people are healthy and have an interesting balance of collective responsibility and of individualism - expressed in how they dress...finding a balance between who they are as people, and who they are as a race.

But...somehow...something seemed missing. Few people looked at us as we passed. As though we did not exist - or matter...and I guess we did not. But what happens when you stop aring about who is in your midst? People did not seem to smile much. They bowed a lot, ans we incredibly polite...but not friendly. And to me, there was a sick sense of repressed childhood...expressed in a need for things cute. Women wearing underpant with rowns of lace, little dirl dresses - as though they were still small children - and yet sex objects to boot - strangly and sickly making the little girl a sex thing. And the carrying of teddybears everywhere. Small stuffed creatures, cartoons, and sparkling, glittery toys...everywhre vending machines dispensing some kind of small fuzzy something...as though these things replace genuine affection and nurturing.

I did not see the calm, happy, take time to know someone feeling that is always so evident in the developing world. Nathan loved Japan...and he did an excellent job of getting us around through the complicated mazes of monorails, subways, streetcars, busses, and trains. He delighted in the gadgetry of it all....heated toilet seats, bus stops that electronically tell you where the bus is and how long it will take you to get places.

Japan left me feeling confused and impressed, delighted and depressed. I will have to ponder longer on this strange country.