Goreme

Well, first off, let me apologize for the typos. I am using Nathan's mini notebook computer, and I swear unless you have fingers the size of a pixie, you keep hitting the wrong keys. And to go back and fix typos is to risk the internet going down and losing all your work....so,one day I will write a book, and all these tales will be well edited in there.

Where do I begin...what an amazing place! History has new meaning. When you read your old testament stories of the Hittites ...this is the land...this is the beginning of Christendom...I spent a better part of the day today in caves that were hollowed out by 6th Century Christians(more on that later).


Yesterday we went to the Unesco world heritage site - the Open Air Museum. It was a series of caves that were used by early Christians. Inside, some of the artwork was well preserved...frescos of Christ and the disciples.

Today, my day began at 4:30 am with the call to prayer, which is singing 5 times a day over loud speakers, and it is an eery awaking. Interestingly, I decided since I am awake at 4:30, I might as well pray. We then headed out for an early morning hot air balloon ride over the amazing rock formations that make up Cappadocia. It was an incredible site as there were 40 hot air balloons all taking off at the same time, and the skill of the pilots were incredible.

They would have us flying high, and then suddenly sinking so lo0w into the canyons you could touch the weeds growing out the side of the rock formations, Terrifying and exhilarating all at the same time. The we headed out n an all day tour which took us to the largest underground city that went 8 stories below the ground...all hollowed out of the rock. These underground tunnels and caverns were for hiding in during ancient times. Up to 3000 people would live down there for several weeks at a time. There were underground schools, and wineries, and churches. The we took a hike through a canyon and saw well preserved churches...again carved out of stove in the clifface of the canyon.


Hermit munks spent 1000 years...from the 6th century to the 16th century hollowing out cathedral caves. Nathan climbed high into the mountain. I was sure he was going to be lost forever in there...finally he stuck his head out an opening, and I was amazed that the monastery in the mountain went so high. Hundreds and hundreds of feet of tunnels and stairs and rooms, all carved out of the rock.




Pictures will never do what we saw today justice, but I will try to post some soon. The internet is quite slow here, so it may be too difficult, but I know I will be able to catch up in India - where internet is always good.

Another interesting things that happened today, is people kept wanting to take my picture. I have been wearing a colourful headscarf and long skirt - which while not necessary in Turkey, is appreciated by local Muslim villagers...anyway, a couple of times, men from Europe asked if they could photograph me...said I was just too beautiful and colourful not to photograph. One was a professional writer and photographer...who knows, perhaps i will show up in one of his books!

Well, tomorrow we are off to the south of the country on the Mediterranean coast. I am so cold, i just have t0 head south. It has been very cold here, and since we are mostly travelling to hot countries, we did not really pack for cold. So tomorrow, another overnight bus trip...but well woth it to feel the heat. Love to all.

Cats, carpets, and Turkish babas

On the night bus from Istanbul to Cappadocia I had time to reflect on several things. Of interest was the number of cats we saw in the city. Feral cats everywhere, and most notably in all the restaurants. Everywhere you would sit, within seconds some mangy cat would be on your lap or at your feet. They all seem to be well fed by the tourists...including me. We were at a fish market on the sea and the sweetest little kitten wandered into our restaurant. I scooped it up, and the owner came oveer and says to me "it is a gift for you"...smirking because to them, these mangy things are just pests and the fact I picked it up made him laugh. As I walked through the market with the kitten (only a few weeks old) in my arms, a small crowd of fisherman gathered - thinking it odd. Then one came over with a small fish for me to feed it, and then the spectacle of me trying to make the fish look appetizing so the kitten would eat it.

The making of Turkish carpets is an art that dates back to the 1300's. The Turks were the first to do it...later copied by the Persians, orientals, and others. Each woman when he marrys, makes a dowry carpet. The design tells her story, and the carpet comes with her to the new marriage home. The handmade, one of a kind carpets last for hundreds of years and are passed on from family to family. When a family has lots of carpets, they occasionally sell one to a carpet trader who sells it to a wholesaler who sells it to tourists or retailers around the world.

These used rugs are traded and sold here much like we would buy and sell antique furniture. The older and more artistic the rug, the more valuable. There are rugs made of cotton, called Killum and rugs of wool (camel or lamb) on cotton, or wool on wool. Then there is the silk carpets - usually the most expensive. There are many made today commercially - for the tourists, and one must be careful to know the difference. I found a beautiful one - not too old, so has many decades left in it, that was made in Azerbaijan. It was like a painting, full of detail, beautiful coloured flowers on a black, blue and brown background...stunning. I was so tempted to buy it...and might still :-)

We took the overnight train last night from Iatanbul. It stopped in many places along the way so it was tough to get a good sleep. Interesting though to see the density of population around Istanbul. We drove for 2 hours on a highway before leaving the city. The it was one densely populated city after another. When we awoke at 5 am this morning we were in the country side...the area looked much like the Kamloops area....dry and hilly. Agriculture here is mostly wheat, lentils, chickpeas and sunflowers. There is some fruit and grapes here. Around 7:30 we drove into a canyon, much like you would com9ng into Drumheller Alberta...and there was a valley full of rocky formations with windows and doors! Yes it is a city built in the rocks...cave houses and cave hotels. Possibly the coolest place I have ever been. Nathan and I are heading out on a 4-5 hour walkabout, so will have more to share later tonight.

Oh yeah...the babas...long story....maybe another day.

Ancient modern city

Well today Nathan and I toured the city and saw some amazing sights...Mosques built in the 6th century...sixth, not sixteenth! We walked through an underground cistern larger than a football field, ALSO BUILT IN THE 6TH CENTURY! Inside were dozens of marble and concrete pillars and two medusas.


We walked through the shopping district on the Asian side of Istanbul and ate some yummy donair type things. I even found a Starbucks where my grande latte was welcomed to fight off the bitter cold.



This afternoon = finally = the sun came out, and the sky turned blue. As I sit here, I am looking out over the Bosphorus sea, where dozens of container ships line up to head through the straights to the black sea.

Istanbul surprised me a bit. I expected more Asian influence - but the Europeanness of it is prominent. It is a modern city with ancient history and 22 kilometers of ancient city wall still standing.

Yesterday we ate at a small nondescript place called Cafe Hyat. We were the only customers and the owner was delightful. He called me sister and shared his Raki, often called lions milk because it turns white when you add water. A friend of his who is a musician came in and played his 7 stringed instrument and sang for us. It was a lovely private concert and we experienced a bit of the old world hospitality that seems to be lost in the tourism boom. More often than not vendors were rude and pushing their carpets and their menus on you, much like the beach vendors in Mexico...but brother Hyat redeemed the city with his smile, his kiss and his amazing lamb chops.

Brother Hyat

Yesterday was cold. I knew this might be a problem. you see, packing for seven weeks in the tropics, with a short 8 day start in Turkey was difficult with only one carry-on bag. By the time I packed my shorts, skirts, light weight tops, sun hat, sandals, bathing suit, gobs of toiletries like sunscreen, DEET, Malaria medicine, and of course - my sari - there was no room left for things like socks, long underwear, sweaters and coats. I found myself wandering the spice market and grand bazaar in Istanbul looking for earmuffs! OK, so it was not really THAT cold, but today I am wearing my long sun dress with my tights underneath, my zip up sweater and raincoat. I was tempted to put on the funny green socks they give you on Turkish Airlines, but with the sandals it was just too much. I already look like frump girl from hell.

Nathan is hovering over my shoulder...anxious to go dive in to the wonderful Turkish breakfast they provide at our hostel...so, I will fill you all in later on the sights and sounds of Istanbul...and of course on Brother Hyat!

Day 1

She's taken my quotes out of context.

Day One

Well, here we are at the Ottawa airport...and like any mom about to head out on a 7 week journey with a 22 year old, I decide it is best if we have a wee chat about ground rules. So, I give the speech about norming and storming and performing (you know, the group dynamics thing), and suggest we set some rules. So, Nathan says, "rules are dumb." Sigh. So, I explain that it is very important to me that we both agree to what the rules are, so he says, "well, how about if we take turns setting the rules?" "OK, I say, good idea....but I go first!" So, I tell him how traumatic it is for me to not know where someone I am traveling with is, so my first rule is, ALWAYS tell me where you are going, or where you will be - even if you are just strolling 20 feet away. So then Nathan says,"that's a dumb rule." Sigh. Then I say, "now it's your turn." So he thinks for a second, and says, "my rule is, we can't make any more rules". Sigh. It is going to be a LONG trip.

Count down - 5 more sleeps!

Well, I just finished compiling my blog posts from my trip around the world with son number one - into an easy to read format for my sister who has dial up internet and had trouble accessing the blog because of picture download times. As I was rereading it, I was reminded of a great number of details of my trip that I had long forgotten. The chronicle made me cry and laugh, and I am so very glad I kept a journal of that trip...and so, I will again.

This trip feels different. I am heading off with son number two - but this time am a little wiser for having already travelled so much. First of all, I am not heading off for 4 months. That was - for me - just too long. So this journey will see us travel for 7 weeks and only 4 countries. My mammoth trip of 19 countries in 4 months last time, taught me that the best intercultural experiences were in those places where we stayed the longest. So I took my own advice, and the pace of this trip shall be a little slower.

I have even learned not to book every minute of every day in advance. I have left much of our trip up in the air...forcing us to wing it. That goes against my type A personality, however, from experience I have learned that just winging it can be equally delightful, and it allows you to take advantage of things that happen that you could never have planned.

So, for now, our itinerary looks something like this:

April 25th departure

Chicago, IL
Istanbul, Turkey
Cappadoacia, Turley
Somewhere else in Turkey
Somewhere else in Turkey
Mumbai, India
Kochi, India
2 week Gap Adventure of Southern India
Chennai, India
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Hanoi, Vietnam
Cat Ba Island, Vietnam
Somewhere else in Vietnam
Somewhere else in Vietnam
Ho Chi Mihn City, Vietnam
Tokyo, Japan
Somewhere else in Japan
Somewhere else in Japan
Calgary, AB

We will end out journey in Calgary where I will spend a week house shopping, as I will be moving there at the end of June to take a job working with First Nations and to run for the Wildrose Alliance nomination in the new riding of Calgary-Killarny.

I hope you will follow along with Nathan and I, and enjoy our tales of discovery. We love you and will miss you! Stay tuned...