Hiroshima

We took the train to Hiroshima, and then took a ferry to a small island that was yet another UNESCO world Heritage site. We did not really stay long enouh to do it justice. There were dozens of ancient shrines with walkways lined with hundreds of tiny carved Budhas and a temple, and a preserved town - kind of a Japanese Heritage Park in the mountains. ALl through the town there were tame deer. They could be touched, and if you were not careful they would start eating your napsack or grab your brochure or map. They seem to think paper is particularily tasty!

Then we went to the Peace Memorial Museum. Much like in Ho Chi Minh City, I choked back tears as I read through the descriptions and looked at the pictures of the devastating effects of the nuclear bomb. It is no wonder Japan has sworn itself to peace and the elimination of nuclear weapons. I was awestruck by the absolute power of that bomb and how it virtually disintigrated an entire city. My most lasting impression - like in Vietnam - was that there are still effects of that war even today. Some people, born in the 40's of women that were pregnant at the time following the bombs, had babies with severe problems caused by the radiation. So you can see people in the 60's and 70's still carrying the scars of war. This impacted me - as it is so easy to think about these wars as so long ago - that it is easy to placate oneself, and not sense the same urgency as the people here do to prevent war from happening again.

Then we went to McDonalds for supper....kinda a tradition I guess, since Joel and I visited the dreaded golden arches on the last day of our trip too. They have a McPork there....a hamburgr, only pork instead of beef.

The next day as we headed back to tokyo, then to the airport to catch our flight, I had a chance to ponder a number of things about Japanm and about this trip. Some things cannot be shared of course, for they are between Nathan and I, but here are a few final thoughts:

Japan was a strange experience for me. It is an example of how capitalism and hard work, shared values and strong work ethic can build a nation. It is clean, efficient, and has the highest per capita spending in the world. The people are quite rich - both financially - and in tradition. They are an honorable race. The pride they take in their cities is easily seen in the infrastructure. Transportation infrastructure is amazing, and designed to get the people where they need to go (usually work). Accommodations for the disabled are evident everywhere....brail built into street, bathroom cubilces, etc. Ramps for access. There are few homeless people. Arts and culture are promoted through free admission to most museums/sites. The people are healthy and have an interesting balance of collective responsibility and of individualism - expressed in how they dress...finding a balance between who they are as people, and who they are as a race.

But...somehow...something seemed missing. Few people looked at us as we passed. As though we did not exist - or matter...and I guess we did not. But what happens when you stop aring about who is in your midst? People did not seem to smile much. They bowed a lot, ans we incredibly polite...but not friendly. And to me, there was a sick sense of repressed childhood...expressed in a need for things cute. Women wearing underpant with rowns of lace, little dirl dresses - as though they were still small children - and yet sex objects to boot - strangly and sickly making the little girl a sex thing. And the carrying of teddybears everywhere. Small stuffed creatures, cartoons, and sparkling, glittery toys...everywhre vending machines dispensing some kind of small fuzzy something...as though these things replace genuine affection and nurturing.

I did not see the calm, happy, take time to know someone feeling that is always so evident in the developing world. Nathan loved Japan...and he did an excellent job of getting us around through the complicated mazes of monorails, subways, streetcars, busses, and trains. He delighted in the gadgetry of it all....heated toilet seats, bus stops that electronically tell you where the bus is and how long it will take you to get places.

Japan left me feeling confused and impressed, delighted and depressed. I will have to ponder longer on this strange country.

onsens and cultural curiosities

Japanese culture is really quite fascinating. There are so many small things that we have noticed. Everything is so organized and clean. Not even a cigarette butt on the ground. I found it interesting that although there are designated smoking areas still in the bars, restaurants, and most buildings, you are not allowed to smoke on the street outside! It is considered dangerous - as the streets are often so crowded with people. They do, however, have designated smoking areas on the occasional street corner, where metal cannisters are there to use as ashtrays.

There are vending machines everywhere with everything from energy drinks to hot coffee, beer and cigarettes - and all at very reasonable prices. The bakeries here are amazing...would put the French to shame. In fact, this is quite the place if you re a foodie like me. The food is fun to look at. There are specialty stores everywhere that sell special candies and cakes - and they are all works of art. Beautiful colours and designs. I have no idea how these people stay so thin.

I am not really a fan of some of the food here(although I love sushi),there just seems to be a lack of veggies...I know, I know, I am hung up on crunchy greens, but for good reason...my digestive system is reliant on them (if you get my meaning). There has been absolutely no "movement on the southern front' since we left Vietnam! I swear all this rice and noodles turns to glue in my gut!

Today Nate and I went to see the ancient Emperor's palace. Very un-ostentatious - but the grounds were beautiful with many gardens, ponds, and amazing trees. After that we went and walked around the food market. It was huge - with all manner of edibles....I bought some figs, strawberries and plums...will eat them all tonight and see what happens :-). Then we went for sushi and stuffed ourselves with varying delicacies that passed by us on a conveyor belt. We just took what we wanted as it went by, and stacked out empty little plates for them to count at the end so they would know how much to charge us. It was an 18 plate meal.

After supper we took a bus cross town and found one of the old bathhouses built around natural hot springs. Now that was a cultural experience...here is how it went...

We entered,paid, were given a small towel and a bar of soap to wash up with before entering the hot pools. Well, as we entered the change rooms, Nate says, "see you on the other side." We assumed we would be together in the pools - but as it turned out, there were two sections, one for men and one for women. In the locker room as i was stripping down to put my bathing suit on, I notice a whole lot of old naked women. Hmmmm, oh well, I think to myself, surely they wore bathing suits in the pools...or if not, maybe only the older people are the naked ones. Then an old lady came over and babbled at me in Japanese, and handed me a small round plastic bowl...not sure why, and since I did not understand a word she said, I just smiled and put on my suit, and I entered a hallway between the changing room and the pools. It had a long sink. and I figured - Ok, I get it, this is where I am supposed to wash my body before going into the pool. So, I start to wash my hands, and when I moved onto my armpits, an old lady shrieked at me and started to cackle. She says, "NO! This bath!" pointing to the pool. Then she points to my suit and says, "no underwear." "You take o0ff and go in there to wash!" Okeedoky....

So, I strip naked, take my plastic bowl (still don't know what this is for), and go into the room with the pools - relieved to see there is a wall between where the men enter the pools and where the women are. I look around, and suddenly it all makes sense. There on the walls around the hot pools is a line of midget sized shower heads....and mirrors...and the women are all sitting - naked - on little plastic stools facing the mirrors, taking showers. And pouring little bowls of water over their heads and bodies to rinse off the bubbles. OK, got it. Dump bowls of water over head before jumping in pool.

So, I crouch down rinse my hair, wash my parts, and hop into the nearest pool to hide my nakedness. That's when I see all the women -still on their stools- lathering themselves vigorously - for a second and third time - with all manner of soaps and clothes, and scrubbing their bodies in a way I have never seen. Hmmmm, I think to myself...is it possible my mother forgot to teach me how to bath? She did after all forget to teach me how to iron...I think it is quite possible I have never washed myself properly. Man - do these people know how to wash! It is quite a ritual! Only after the 30 minute scrubbing, did they then go soak in the various different tubs of hot water.

The water - yes - this too was an experience. So, I slink into the nearest tub, which was a cedar tub with a very nice temperature. But, since i have no one to talk to, i get quickly bored and move on to the next tub. I start walking through a skinny area, and all of a sudden i squeal...JEEESUZ! I have been electrocuted! I am jumping and shouting and manage to clamour out of the tub right beside the sign that says "Electric bath" I am not kidding!...it also said, do not use this bath if you have heart trouble. Heart trouble? The bath just gave me a freaking heart attack! Ok, on to the next tub...

This one was pretty cool - I thought there was a bench to sit on, so when i sat down, i realized I was sitting on strong jets of water. There was no bench...just the water pressure keeping you up. Then there was the two tubs that were too hot to go in, the herbal tub - that i am pretty sure was tea, and then the lovely tubs that were outdoors built out of rocks with the natural water coming in from a small water fall. This one was a lovely temperature. Then I hopped into the next one. Holy Shit! it was ice cold. Nice trick people...lure me with 29 different hot tubs and then sneak in a cold one just to piss me off.

Onsen. Interesting custom. I think I will stick to my dual clawfoot tub, a few bubbles, mon amant, and a glass of wine. Who cares if I never get cleaned properly!

Tomorrow we are off to Hiroshima, then the next day we head back to Tokyo and catch out flight home. I cannot believe our 7 week trip is almost over. I will write more tomorrow s I have some final reflections on Japan I want to share and some photos to upload. For some reason the internet at this hostels is extremely slow, so uploading is out of the question here....maybe at the airport tomorrow.

kYOTO

The fast train to Kyoto was pretty impressive. The speeds reach 300 km/hour. It actually made me nauseous to look out the window - as things went by so fast. That didn't bother me since the Japanese cities along the way were pretty boring. The houses are nondescript, squished together, no or tiny yards, nothing pretty at all...very utilitarian.

Kyoto has a few nice buildings, and you can see the mountains close by.

yesterday we spent several hours shopping. I LOVE THE CLOTHES HERE...I could have shopped all day. Anybody who is a rel girl's girl would love the fashion here. Very pretty, frilly, and pink. Petticoats, frilly panties, lacy and dainty everything. The department stores here are HUGE, and every where you go there are service people wearing white gloves, bowing at you and saying "welcome" (in Japanese of course).

Afterwards, we went to a Karaoke place, where three hours of singing and three beers set us back $76! We had a lot of fun. Then we took a cab home, but since the driver did not speak any english, we only managed to get ourselves into the vicinity of our hotel, and then had to walk around (at 1 am) looking for our street. No worries though; it is very safe here. police are everywhere. In fact, there re workers everywhere....everything seems to be overstaffed. We came to s small spot on the sidewalk where they were doing construction, and they had to detour us off the sidewalk for about 20 feet. There were 4 white gloved flagmen - one every 5 feet, to guide us (maybe to ensure we did not lose our way??? It was very weird!)

We do love being bowed t though. Kinda gives you the same feeling s in India when people wanted to take our pictures.

We are off now to see some ancient shrines. I will update more later aand try to post some pics.

Tokyo, Japan

What a huge city! Lots to tell you...

This morning I awoke to an earthquake. Just a little one. Nate slept through it and although I was jabbing him to wake up, saying, "Nate, Nate, it's an earthquake," he just grumbled and rolled over. So I went downstairs in our hostel, bought a can of hot coffee out of the vending machine (yes.. a can of hot coffee...you gotta love this place) and checked my mail. There was a Turkish man down here all excited about the quake, rambling on about it to the reception desk.

Yesterday Nate and I spent the day travelling around Tokyo by train, monorail, subway, and foot. The transportation system here is really efficient. Nate had bought rail passes for us before we arrived, so we just flash our pass and away we go! After picking up our money and dashing to the nearest 7-11 for sushi and a Starbucks coffee, we took the train to an old part of the city, visiting little shops, we walked around the Emperor's palace grounds and saw lovely gardens and old stone walls and the mote,


then we took the monorail out to a manmade island where there were some very cool looking buildings and the world's tallest ferris wheel (about 30 stories high), which we took for a ride. Very fun - amazing views of this enormous, never ending city. Last night we went up the Tokyo Tower - a replica of the Eiffel tower to enjoy the views further.

Tokyo is the opposite of India. It is full of people and crowded - like India - but clean and organized. Everyone walks fast and in organized files. There are always three escalators going to the trains...one for up, one for down, and one for lane reversal depending on the time of day! People all follow the rules...no jaywalking. People are polite - no pushing or crowding. There is always a uniformed man wearing white gloves to open the door for you at establishments. They all bow - even the taxi drivers - to say thank you for your patronage...and there is no tipping allowed.
Other nice differences between India and Japan include bathroom cubicles stacked with dozens of rolls of toilet paper, vending machines full of every kind of drink imaginable - even carbonated milk drinks like Fanta White (amazing taste...)


I also am really enjoying noticing just how different the culture is here. It is not at all an oriental west. They dress different, they act different, they talk different. For example, because their culture is very collective and conformist, people express their individuality in how they dress. Watching the people here is amazing. You will see women in skirts so short you can see the crack at the base of their bottom...wearing long knee socks, ankle boots with pom poms on them, and rabbit ears (seriously...and not just a few people...this is acceptable dress here!). You will also see the raggedy Anne look...frumpy, but lacy dresses of no shape at all, with empress cuts that eliminate the breasts. These looks are the "little girl" look and worn a lot by women. Today we are going to a park that is known for girls parading around in what is called the Gothic-Lolita look. Gothic little girls (???)...should be interesting. For those of you who have never read the classic book - Lolita, it is about a young nymphette who ends up in a sexual relationship with her mother's husband at age 10. Even the men dress funny here - when they are not in their well cut, high end, black suits and shiny expensive shoes. Young men especially - they wear their hair very poofy with loads of hairspray, and dress quite feminine.

I will write more tonight about what we have seen, and will try to upload photos before we head off to Stephane Dion's dog's namesake (Kyoto) tomorrow.

Sand dunes, fairy trails and Tokyo disaster

Our last day in Mui Ne was great - even though it began at 4 am. We left early to beat the heat, and travelled along the beautiful coast to some white sand dunes. They were pretty incredible! It was like being in the Sahara (I think). I could not walk too far on them as it was a bit of a tough walk through the sand going straight uphill in some places, but Nate was able to trek quite high.


Then we went to a fishing village where all the fisherman were just arriving from their night out on the sea. It was pretty fun. Dozens of round salad bowls (large ratan bowls that have a paddle and carry a lot of fish) full of sea snakes and crabs and fish and shrimp...and then dozens of tiny Vietnamese ladies yelling and screaming at each other as they haggle over the price. I was so upset because the batteries of my camera dies and I was unable to take photos.

The we walked up a stream that was so neat! It meandered through a canyon - where blood red and white hoodoos were being slowly dissolved by tiny underground springs...so it was as though the canyon was melting. The sand was pink, and layered the bottom of the stream, making it incredibly nice to walk up. No rocks - just pink sand. In the canyon there was also lush green areas that were shaded, and further up some waterfalls. All I could think about was how much my Stephane would love this spot. It would be perfect to spend an entire day there - splashing in the pink water and climbing up the melting canyon and then finding a cool spot to picnic in.

At 2pm we caught our "sleeper" bus back to Saigon. Now this was about the coolest bus trip I have ever been on! The bus did not have seats...it had beds! Seriously! Three rows of bunk beds...one down each side and one down the middle. The beds reclined or you could sit there upright, but stretched out. Very comfy. It would be an awesome way to travel the whole country...catch a sleeper bus every night and wake up in a new city every morning! It only cost us $7 each for the 6 hour journey.

Upon our return to Saigon we had several hours to kill as we had to be at the airport for 4 am...so we hung out at a Mexican restaurant playing cards and drinking shots of tequila ($1 each). Beside us was a group of Aussie men who lived there (not at the bar) and told us about life in Saigon. At times I found the men quite disturbing. One was an x-American soldier, and he was incredibly offensive in the way he talked about the Vietnamese. He was loud and obnoxious, and at times I was very uncomfortable. So we headed to the airport early, and I ended up sleeping outside the airport on a metal bench, while Nathan read.

We arrived in Tokyo, after an uneventful flight, only to discover that bank cards do not work in Tokyo, and most places do not take credit cards, and neither of us have PIN numbers on our credit cards to take out cash. So, we find ourselves penniless. Could not buy food, take the subway - NOTHING! We went to an America bank, and even they could not give us cash off our credit cards. So, by 7 pm we were getting pretty hungry (and panicked), so we travelled to the business district in search of a restaurant that took VISA or MC. We finally found one, went in and ordered chicken wings. We had heard how expensive Tokyo was, and were quite surprised to see the wings were only $5! The our plate came. It had 4 wings on it.

So, hungrier - for having whetted the appetite with 2 wings...we headed out yet again in search of food. Went to an area that looked much like Time Square in New York City...all lights and people and tall buildings. It was Nathan's dream district. Everywhere were arcades - filled with games - all being played by men in business suits! Restaurants were on every street corner...with plastic food in the windows describing their menu. All delicious. None of them took credit cards.

Finally exhausted, and even more panicked, we pulled out the trusty Lonely Planet guide, and looked for clues as to where we might find food that accepted cards. We found one - a fairly expensive one- in the book, but after 20 minutes of staring at the map, Nate could not figure out where we were on it - let alone where the place we wanted to get to was. As he was looking at the map, I was people watching and looking at the stores around us. Then I spotted a sign - just 50 feet from us that said "Ibuzi" ...the name of the restaurant we were looking for. We had been standing right in front of it the whole time! So we went in and had some traditional Japanese hot pot, where you place little pieces if beef and vegetables in a pot of broth which is kept boiling on your table by a stove top built right in to the table! The food was very good - and yes, very pricy.

After that we headed home to our hostel. We have a 3 mat room. It is big enough for 3 mats. Which makes it about 7 feet by 6 feet. If our suitcases are on the floor, there is not room for our small mattress. It was a bit claustrophobic...kind of like sleeping in a closet. And what's worse is this is the most expensive accommodations we have had all trip. More than twice what we paid for our beach bungalow. But the cool toilets here make up for it. They have gadgets on them. Music, bumb sprayers, flushing sounds to mask the real tinkle...pretty neat. The one at the airport had a built in baby seat that holds your baby while you pee, and the one at the hostel has the tank in the corner of the cubicle - that when you flush, water comes out a spout for hand washing.

Today we are off to receive a money gram from Kelvin, who Nathan called on Skype last night in a desperate search to solve our money issues. I put Nathan in charge of Japan, so myself had done no research on what we needed here, where to stay, what to see etc, so when we discovered our predicament here, I made him solve the problem - which he did very well...called his dad and said, please send money! Thanks Kelvin :-)

Mui Ne - on the sea

Mui Ne is the place to be if you love the sea, sand, and cool ocean breezes to cool you off. We left Saigon and took a 6 hour bus ride to this resort town where resorts (even 5 star western style resorts) line the black and white sand beach. No need for a 5 stqr hotel though, for every hotel is on the same beach. The waves here are big, and most people are here to kite surf and wind surf. The wind is relentless - but such a nice break from the heat. The day we spent in Saigon it was 42 degrees with 90% humidity...so it felt like 50 degrees...so I am not kidding when I say my brain is melting at times. Here it is only 34 and the wind feels wonderful, and the sound of waves crashing on the beach 15 feet from my bed is very relaxing at night.

Nate and I have a private bungalow,
15 feet off the water, with a private patio with padded lounge chairs, a pool, palm trees, nice bathroom, wells stocked mini bar (beer is $.80)...all for a whopping $25/night. The restaurant next door - also on the water so you can enjoy the sea breeze, has AMAZING food, also for just a few dollars for a lovely meal...including plentyo0f crunchy vegetables! I would absolutely come back here for a week R&R type vacation as a break from winter, and I would say it is well worth the 1/2 day drive from Ho Chi Minh City to get here. Tomorrow a.m. we will arise at 4:30 am (to beat the heat) and go tour the red and white sand dunes, canyons, and various sites around here. I will upload photos if possible tomorrow night while we are waiting for our flight to Tokyo.

Today after laying on the beach reading for a few hours I went for a back, head, and hand massage...very nice and relaxing. Set me back a staggering $7! We went swimming a few times, and frolicked in the large waves, but the water here is so warm it is not really very refreshing...and the under tow is strong, so the water is not for the weak swimmer...not a great place for young kids, although the sand is amazing....black as ink...with a layer of wonderful white on top...and soft and fine as powdered sugar. Last night as we walked along the beach (the tide was out) from the restaurant to our hotel, there were large crabs that would scurry across the sand to the water. The stars were amazing and in the distance was a lightening storm. Very romantic....and while I love my son, I was sort of wishing my fiance Stephane was here. No worries...I will bring him back here one day. I figure we could easily live here for $350/month...so when we retire, we can come here one winter...it rivals Roatan!

Sun, sand, ocean breeze, starry nights, cheap beer, and air conditioning...what else does one need?? Oh yeah...someone to tuck you in at night and bring you slippers in the morning.

Saigon

We arrived in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) late last night after a full day of travel by bus, boat and plane. Saigon is a busy metropolis with signs of a decent economy everywhere. There is a lot of building going on, and the streets are full of brand new scooters and well dressed people. It is hard to imagine most of Viet Nam was leveled in the 60's and early 70's by the Americans. There are still many lovely buildings from the days of French rule here,
and lovely parks where the trees are groomed into shapes...

A visit to the War Remnants Museum today was a stark reminder of the realities of war. I cried. It was difficult to see the horrific pictures of so many people killed and maimed - the brutality was inhuman, and it makes me so sad to be reminded of what human kind is capable of.

After we visited the museum, we walked awhile, and then overwhelmed by the heat (it is as hot and humid here as southern India), we decided to hire 2 rickshaws. They offered to drive us for "one dollar"...but when we arrived and I gave the man one dollar, he said, "no..,one zero dollar" By now, Nate Nate and I are onto all the tricks...so we simply said, "nice try", smiled, and gave him one dollar. And then, he had the nerve to ask if we wanted him to wait while we looked inside the cathedral so he could also take us to the market. Hmmmmm, let me think about that buddy...uh..NO!

Markets, as always are my favorite for they show the colour and craft of the local people (and lots of good food). Nate spent an hour analyzing a purchase he never actually made, and I resisted the urge to by a ruby ring. I bought a lovely sapphire ring in India, and ruby is the only of the precious stones I do not own....but, I resisted, and bought Nate some clothes instead. I have gotten quite good at negotiating - in fact, I have it down to an art. Negotiate a price, then ask for a better price if you buy more than one, then hesitate and say I better look around first, then after they have come down for a fourth time, start to walk away...that is when they generally chase you down the isle and say loudly, "OK, OK"

After a tough few hours of negotiating, I was a little parched, so next we sat at the little plastic stool place on the street corner and drank a very cheap beer and visited with a Vietnamese guy named Joey, who kept telling Nate how beautiful his mother was, and said over and over to him - "if you loose your wife, you can get another one, but you can never replace your parents." Smart guy I say. I miss my mom.

I am feeling a little down tonight...perhaps it was the pictures at the museum, or perhaps it is having to walk amongst all these beautiful, tiny, skinny Vietnamese women in tight short shorts and high heels. I feel like a fat cow. Then to make matters worse, as I was complaining about it, Nate says, "mom, you are not supposed to look 17 (true), you are supposed to look old and saggy!" Great...I guess that means I am old and saggy. Oh well, old and saggy beats deformed from the effects of agent orange, so I guess I should suck it up.

Tomorrow Nate and I will head four hours north to the country's best beach and nearby sand dunes...should be fun...my large saggy old body can lie on the beach and perhaps some of the fat will melt off me....but no worries...I will replenish those calories with a lot of cheap beer.